So I've gone and done it..

I tore off the interior today (which had real Phillips screws holding it on) and bought some R5 from Lowes and R1 foil for the vapor barrier..

Then I did the R5 Green stuff from Lowes.. its 1" thick.. between the studs..

I cut a 24" roll of bubble foil roughly to 8" strips.. and put in..

This is the corner where the bathroom will be.. so that way I can start on that this week..

You can see the toilet flange in the pic that square under it is the 19x15 Dometic 310 toilet.

The right square drawn on the floor cardboard.. is the 24x32 tub..

I will have 32+" from door to the bathroom wall..  :)

Took a break from working to go get some stuff from storage today..

Here is a pic from the rest area on the local turnpike..

The BlueSea fuse holder came in yesterday and I just screwed in this morning before the trip..

I will get some update pics in the next few days..

The PA reg came in and the PA title as well.. Took 2 weeks to get them but thats done..

Here's an inside shot of the 7 connector junction box on the tongue.. note the 4 pin to 4 pin connector. I added a few wire looms to help protect the wires abit.

Heres the inside 12v lead(s) revised abit.. comes in lower @ about 20" (for a BlueSea 12v fuse block) then goes upto 50" for a 12v switch for the waterpump (using a 15amp house single pole switch and a shallow 'old' work box thats surface mount).. then a 12v+ lead comes back down behind wall again to floor for the actual water pump.

The wire @ 50" will continue up and over (behind the wall) to the side wall and side wall interior light the trailer came with.. I temporarily butt connected the wires and zip tied together for now.

So today my Conntek 10110-048BX (7 pin wire harness with junction box) from Amzn came in ($32 or so). I cut a simple Hopkins 48185 18" extension in half and wired to the 7 junction box.. and also routed the wires to the battery box.. I also mounted for future brake option a breakaway switch incase I decide to add brakes to the unit down the line I will be ready.

The propane plate is mounted down with some 2" self tapping with washers and lock washers..

I put the breakaway on the passenger side.. near the battery box. 

The junction box is partially under the propane tray under the battery side as well.

I did get some wire 'loom' to tidy the wires up and clamp them to the frame tomorrow.

The battery box (Camco 55362 for group 24 batteries) is secured to the propane tray with some screws and lock-nuts as well. The nylon strap is basically just sitting there for now as I don't have a battery.

The purpose is to run the black (hot) wire to the junction box, then to the battery (in the box) that will receive a trickle charge while attached to the primary tow vehicle and also I ran a wire (as noted in prior post) into the trailer compartment for some 12v items.. I got some 10 AWG wire for this as its good for upto like 50 amps.. I know the water pump I am looking at only draws 1 amp.. so I should be good..

Today the Flame King propane mounting plate came in (from Amzn) to mount a 20/30# LP tank and my incoming battery box. The plate is VERY beefy.

Next was to map out the front of the V nose and lay out the 15" 'bar' sink, 3.x cu. ft. fridge, 10 gallon fresh water tank (under counter), and a mini-stove top.. This template will also let me trace it for the 3/4" plywood counter top I will be doing when I can. To the left is the 32" shower stall laid out and the toilet (angle cardboard).

Close up of the front counter area. (L-R) fresh water tank, sink, stove top with the fridge under the counter top..

Next was the 12V wiring to go from the 'battery box' on the tounge to the inside.. I opted for 10ga wire which should be sufficent. Colors are BLACK for HOT and WHITE for NEGATIVE per trailer code.. The wire will be going to a new 7 pin junction box.. so the battery on the trailer will trickle charge as well.. I am going to NOT cut the factory 4 wire and use a 4 wire adapter to go into the junction box.

Inside I dropped a line down to where the RV water pump switch just above the counter top to control it will be.. the other line goes up and back over to the factory 12v interior light near the side door.

I measured under the trailer for holding tanks and decided on a 16" wide x 6" high 8 gallon for the toilet. I checked clearance and all is good. The frame is 3" high and I have 13" of ground clearance.

I also ordered some holding tank grommets to aid in install of the piping and vents to them..

Stay tuned..

I bought a 6x12 2016 Wells Cargo Enclosed Single Axle for conversion to a part-time RV/Camper.

I found a few videos and pics of these being done on TT and such but nothing with notes on some things.. hence this blog being made for you folks to read and garner some more knowledge maybe..

Again just know anything YOU do to YOUR trailer is your liability. Also know that this will VOID any manufacturers warranties on your trailer..

Cost for it was $2775 and then PA tax and tags, etc.. $3201.XX

This model has a 78" interior height (6" extra height as the dealers would say) and a 32x72 side door (most are 32x66 or less). I opted for 'barn doors' as the single rear ramp is known to have spring breakage issues and I wanted to avoid that and with the 'barn doors' I can open 1 half of the rear at a time if needed.

In PA trailers less than 3000# GWVR don't require annual inspections and a 6x12 would afford me a Full Size bed of 54x74. I am single so this will work. I also have a 32x72 GI type cott for my son as a guest.

I'm on a budget and I want to wait till spring to go forward to much.. So I broke out some cardboard and started fabbing some workups for different things.

The trailer nose (which is curved) has 14" to the trailer jack 'plate'.. so space is tight..

1st is the propane and battery mount. I think these 2 items are crucial on a travel trailer/camper.

I found the standard propane 20# double mount works fine on the right and on the left side is the Group 24 battery case. The double tank mount is 9"x24" and with a standard 12 1/8" diameter (20-30#) propane tank I am good to go, the mount is like $30 on Amzn.. The Group 24 battery case ($6 on Amzn) is 8 1/2" deep, 12 1/2"w, and 10 1/2" high the 9" tray will hold the 8 1/2" wide battery case for added slide stoppage if needed.. The crank handle clears both as well.

I plan on adding the $35 7 pin wiring box with 7 pin connector for possible brake later and also to have a 12v hot lead to trickle charge the battery (in the box while driving) and work the 12v interior light that came with the trailer without having to be hooked to the truck with the parking lights on. I bought a 4 pin wiring 18" lead so I don't need to cut my current trailer factory lead..

Stay tuned..